After an incredible first few days in Tokyo, I hopped on the shinkansen bullet train and zoomed off to my next stop: Osaka. I had heard Osaka was a foodie paradise, a neon jungle, and a bit grittier than polished Tokyo. I couldn't wait to experience this colorful city for myself.

Scaling the Umeda Sky Building

My first stop was the iconic Umeda Sky Building, an architectural marvel consisting of two 40-story towers connected at the top by a doughnut-shaped observation deck. The ultra-modern structure of glass and steel is an unmistakable part of Osaka's skyline.

I took a see-through escalator across the building's open atrium to reach the Floating Garden Observatory on the 39th floor. The 360-degree views of the sprawling city were breathtaking. Osaka stretched out infinitely in every direction, a dense tangle of buildings, highways and waterways. The Yodo River snaked through the concrete jungle, catching the sun's rays.

Takoyaki: Osaka's Iconic Street Snack

After working up an appetite, it was time to sample Osaka's most famous street food: takoyaki. These grilled octopus balls are synonymous with the city. I followed my nose to a lively takoyaki stand, where the chef deftly poured batter into a cast iron griddle pocked with hemisphere molds.

He plopped pieces of octopus, scallions, pickled ginger and crunchy tempura bits into each depression, then used long metal skewers to flip the balls until they were golden and crispy all around. Squirted with takoyaki sauce and Japanese mayo, then showered in bonito flakes and seaweed, the steaming hot takoyaki were finally ready.

I popped one in my mouth, the creamy batter and chewy octopus intermingling with the sweet-savory sauces and dancing bonito flakes. The gooey center was a bit too mushy for my taste, but I could appreciate the complex mix of flavors and textures. Takoyaki is the ultimate beer and street food, perfect for fueling a night of Osakan revelry.

Neon & Grit in Namba

Belly full of octopus balls, I dove into the neon heart of Osaka: the Namba district. This is Osaka's entertainment and nightlife hub, with endless alleys of izakayas, bars, restaurants and shops. The crowds and sensory overload were overwhelming. Flashing billboards, blaring J-pop, sizzling yakitori, the shouts of hawkers - Namba assaults all five senses at once.
I shuffled through the jam-packed Dotonbori Street, the pulsing neon artery of Namba. Towering above the crowds was the area's most iconic landmark: the Glico Man, a flashy mechanical runner in front of the Ezaki Glico candymaker's headquarters. After snapping an obligatory photo, I escaped down a quieter side street to take the edge off.
Wandering Namba's gritty but vibrant backstreets, I had to admit Osaka felt dirtier and a bit more run-down compared to squeaky clean Tokyo. But there was a charming authenticity to the shabbiness, a sense that Osaka wasn't putting on airs for anyone. Love it or hate it, Osaka is unapologetically itself.

Namba Yasaka Shrine's Hungry Lion

Needing a break from the crowds and chaos, I sought out the tranquil Namba Yasaka Shrine. Hidden in a quiet corner of Namba, this Shinto shrine is an oasis of calm just steps from the sensory overload of Dotonbori.
The shrine's main draw is its massive lion head stage, the "Shishiden." Standing 12 meters tall, the wooden lion's mouth is agape in a ferocious roar. During festivals, the lion's huge mouth serves as a stage for dancers and drummers. But the lion's gaping maw has a deeper meaning.
According to local belief, the lion's mouth swallows evil spirits, purging worshippers of bad luck and illness. The power of folklore and ritual is strong, even for a skeptical gaijin like myself.
Namba Yasaka Shrine was an unexpected highlight, a place where Osaka's spiritual traditions are alive and well amidst the 21st-century glitz and glamor. I left feeling refreshed and ready to tackle Osaka head-on once more.

Scaling the Tsutenkaku Tower

Another day, another iconic Osaka landmark to conquer. This time it was the Tsutenkaku Tower, a nostalgic symbol of old school Osaka. Built in 1912, the tower was once the tallest structure in Asia before it was surpassed by Tokyo's Tokyo Tower.
I ascended to the 5th floor observation deck, admiring the retro architecture and old-timey feel of the place. The views weren't as jaw-dropping as the Umeda Sky Building, but there was a certain romance to looking out over the low-rise sprawl of Shinsekai, one of Osaka's poorest but most colorful neighborhoods.
On the 4th floor, I rubbed the feet of Billiken, the tower's resident "God of Happiness." The statue of a cherubic boy is said to bring good luck and happiness to those who pay their respects. I figured I could use all the good fortune I could get, so I gave Billiken's well-worn feet an extra pat just to be safe.

Riding the Tempozan Ferris Wheel

For a more modern perspective on Osaka, I headed to the Tempozan Harbor Village, a shopping and entertainment complex in the Osaka Bay area. The village's 369-foot Ferris wheel is one of the largest in Japan, offering sweeping views over Osaka Bay and the city skyline.

I boarded one of the glass-enclosed, climate-controlled gondolas and watched as Osaka slowly shrunk away below me. The 15-minute ride made a full rotation, giving me a seagull's eye view of the harbor, the Tempozan Bridge, and the glittering waters of Osaka Bay.

The One That Got Away

My one regret from my time in Osaka? Not being able to visit the Legoland Discovery Center. As a kid at heart and a lifelong Lego fanatic, I was eager to check out the Lego-themed amusement park. But upon arrival, I was heartbroken to learn that only adults with children are allowed inside.

I tried to argue that I was a child on the inside, but the stubborn staff wouldn't budge. I left dejectedly, my inner 10-year-old crushed. Oh well, I guess some childhood dreams have to remain unfulfilled. At least I'll always have my buckets of bricks at home.

The Osaka Castle Park

Of course, no visit to Osaka is complete without seeing the city's most iconic structure: Osaka Castle. I spent a day exploring the sprawling Osaka Castle Park, a tranquil escape from the urban bustle.
At the heart of the park is the imposing castle tower, perched atop a massive stone foundation. The original castle was built in 1583 by the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, but the current tower is a 1931 concrete reconstruction. I didn't go inside the castle itself, content to admire its grandeur from the outside.
I strolled through the park's manicured gardens, marveling at the 600 cherry trees that explode into bloom each spring (the plan was to see them in full bloom, but winter still had its hold on Japan). The park was an oasis of green, a place where Osakans come to picnic, jog, and enjoy a respite from the concrete jungle.
But even here, I couldn't escape Osaka's eclectic architectural mix. Surrounding the castle grounds were a number of Soviet-style buildings that looked straight out of a Cold War movie. The chunky concrete structures in a Colonial style felt jarringly out of place next to the elegant lines of the Japanese castle.
It was a reminder that Osaka is a city of contrasts, where the ancient and modern, the polished and the gritty, the serene and the chaotic all coexist in a jumble of neon and concrete. Osaka doesn't always make sense, but that's part of its charm.

Final Thoughts

Osaka is a city that is unabashedly itself - loud, proud, and a little rough around the edges. It doesn't have the polish or poise of Tokyo. There's a realness to Osaka, a sense that this is a city of real people living real lives.

From the glittering heights of the Umeda Sky Building to the down-and-dirty streets of Namba, Osaka is a city of a million stories. It's a place where you can start your day with a peaceful shrine visit, stuff yourself silly with takoyaki, and end the night belting out karaoke with salarymen.

Osaka marches to the beat of its own taiko drum - sometimes literally, if you catch a festival performance at Namba Yasaka Shrine. It's a city that doesn't take itself too seriously, but is fiercely proud of its food, its history, and its indomitable spirit.

I left Osaka with a full belly, sore feet, and a newfound appreciation for this neon-lit wonderland. It may not be the prettiest or most polished city in Japan, but it's got a whole lot of heart. And really, isn't that what matters most?

Stay tuned for part 3 of my Japanese adventure, as I head to the ancient capital of Kyoto to get in touch with my spiritual side. Until then, sayonara from Osaka - a city that never fails to surprise, delight, and occasionally confound. I can't wait to see what's in store next in the Land of the Rising Sun!